On the first Saturday of Spring I found myself headed for Carrizozo and White Oaks, in Lincoln County. I drove south from Albuquerque about 87 miles to San Antonio. From San Antonio I headed west on U.S. 380 on a 65 mile journey across the Jornada Del Muerto basin, past the foothills of the Oscura Moutains, up over Chupadera Mesa, and across the Tularosa Valley to Carrizozo. It was a warm day and I had the windows open, helping to cool off the truck's interior, and rearrange a few of the little sand dunes that had settled in the cargo area. Several ghost towns dot the map along the 380 corridor although there's almost nothing left to see of them.
U.S. 380 Between San Antonio And Bingham With Oscura Mountains In Background
The only town between San Antonio and Carrizozo is Bingham, which is nearly a ghost town itself. Bingham, roughly the halfway mark, is made up of about four buildings, one of which is a rock shop selling, among other things, Trinitite from the nearby Trinity Site at White Sands Missile Range. The north end of the missile range occupies most of the land south of US 380 between San Antonio and Carrizozo, which accounts for some of the desolation. A dozen or so miles past Bingham the highway began to rise as it made its meandering way across Chupadera Mesa. Several spots offer incredible views across the broad plains of the Tularosa Basin to the mountains beyond. I descended onto the plains and across the lava flow, planning to stop at Valley of Fires Recreation Area on the return trip. I pulled into Carrizozo and turned right at the four way stop, heading south on U.S. 54 through town. Most of the buildings that line the street are pleasingly old and unaltered. Carrizozo once had a large rail yard and was prosperous, but trains switching to diesel engines rendered obsolete most of the maintenance jobs previously needed for the steam engines. When the jobs left, so did most of the people. Now you might be wondering, "How does a town get a bizarre and mildly silly sounding name like Carrizozo?" The answer is, of course, from the Spanish. These are the same folks who brought you the Blood Of Christ Mountains (Sangre De Christos), Journey Of Death (Jornada Del Muerto), Swarm Of Pests (Mosquero), and Nipple Peak (La Tetilla). The website townofcarrizozo.org states, "With its name derived from the Spanish word “carrizo” meaning a reed-like grass, an extra “zo” was added to proclaim the abundance of the grass in the region, and the town moniker was born."
I pulled up to the Outpost Bar and Grill, a place I had patronized the previous year. Once my eyes adjusted to the darkness I made my way to a booth and had a seat. I ordered a burger with green chile and a Roswell Alien Amber Ale. My gaze wandered around at the vast array of stuff adorning the walls. There were game trophies almost too numerous to list, but included a moose, an oryx, a bobcat, a bear, a javelina, and a buffalo. The bar displayed a collection of firearms that would shame many sporting goods stores. Other items spied upon the walls were a rifle cartridge collection, coin collections, a barbed wire collection, some Native American artifacts, and of course, beer signs. An old arcade game by the small dance floor chirped and beeped excitedly, while the two pool tables went unused. My chile-heaped burger arrived and I ate happily, only mildly disturbed by the glassy stares of a hundred deceased animals watching me chew. I paid my tab and wandered back outside. A mural on the building's exterior had a depiction of a bowl of chili and the words "ho-made chili." I was unable to make the acquaintance of the prep cook to verify the claim of their libidinous disposition.
Outside The Outpost Bar And Grill
I drove a few blocks to Roy's Ice Cream and stopped to have a look around. I went into the 1909 structure and browsed a bit. Originally a drugstore with general merchandise and a soda fountain, the interior retained most of the original fixtures and shelving. The business seems to stay afloat through diversification. Among the items for sale were candy, soda fountain drinks, ice cream, flowers, greeting cards, lottery tickets, knick knacks, grave decorations, balloons, and even an old package of flashbulbs. A large framed photograph of the original proprietor, Dr. M.G. Paden, hangs high above the cash register. A chocolate malt from a soda fountain in an old corner drug store was incredibly tempting but I was still full from my burger and mountain of fries. I bought a lottery ticket (I won $7) and a Carrizozo Raspberry Cider and went back out to the truck. I drove slowly down 12th Street, looking at all the old buildings, some of which are being restored. This is a great little street with many an aged edifice, and even the street signs are original. I drove up to the Carrizozo Heritage Museum hoping to peruse some local history, but arrived an hour after it closed.
Carrizozo Heritage Museum
I got back in my truck and headed north on U.S. 54 about 3 miles and turned right on NM 349. The 9 miles to White Oaks was a pleasant, curvy, undulating drive through the hills. At the foot of the town is the Cedarvale Cemetery, where some famous locals are buried. One of the gravestones I came to see was that of Lincoln County deputy James Bell. Deputy Bell was shot by Billy the Kid upon the Kid's escape from the Lincoln County Jail in April of 1881. The tombstone was purchased in 2003 by the New Mexico Sheriff's and Police Association because they felt that an officer of the law killed in the line of duty, even if it was well over a hundred years ago, needed an appropriate headstone. Like several of the people involved with Billy the Kid, Mr. Bell's grave was lost for some time. Many graves in Cedarvale are unmarked or have only an uninscribed, weathered plank at their heads.
Deputy Bell's Headstone
Another grave with ties to Billy the Kid is that of Susan MacSween, wife of Alexander MacSween, business partner of John Tunstall, Billy's employer whose murder more or less marked the beginning of the Lincoln County War. There are also a number of tombstones of Civil War veterans, including some from Indiana and Kentucky. The above mentioned Dr. Paden, along with other family members, is also buried in this cemetery. I wandered around for twenty minutes or so, and the earliest birth year I saw was 1820. Mining town cemeteries offer a fascinatingly diverse range of occupants, and are well worth a look if you have time. Some people call browsing cemeteries "morbid," while I prefer to call it "historically inquisitive."
I proceeded to White Oaks to have a peek at the town. I have been curious about the town ever since I saw Young Guns 2 in 1990, especially the part when a comely female resident rode stark-naked out of town on a horse. Gold was discovered in 1869 and White Oaks boomed in the usual manner of mining towns, quickly becoming the largest town in Lincoln County. White Oaks had its share of saloons, outlaws, and ladies of ill repute. I went to the Miner's Home and Tool Shed Museum, but it is only open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. The White Oaks Schoolhouse Museum shares the same seasonal hours, and here I was in late March. I peered in the windows of the Miner's Home and saw what appeared to be a room furnished with late 19th century decor, complete with mannequin in period dress. The nearby No Scum Allowed Saloon seemed to have a steady stream of patrons. I pondered stopping in but gathered from the name that perhaps I was not welcome.
Schoolhouse Museum
White Oaks is home to some striking old buildings, including the old two- story schoolhouse, a couple of large, stately homes, and a building whose two- story facade was wallpapered with pressed tin panels.
Lacking open museums and naked ladies on horseback- things I had hoped to see in White Oaks- I left town, back towards Carrizozo. From Carrizozo it is only 4 miles to Valley Of Fires Recreation Area. The lava flow is known as the Carrizozo Malpais and is 44 miles long, and covers 127 square miles. This is a fairly young flow at around 5000 years old, and is recent enough that Pale0- Indian sites are likely to be buried beneath the lava. The park has a .38 mile paved trail with interpretive signs, and offers various levels of camping. Day use fees are $3 for one person or $5 per vehicle for more than one person.
Trail At Valley Of Fires
50 Ways To Leave Your Lava
I began the 152 mile trek back to Albuquerque in warm evening light, stopping occasionally for photos. Cresting the foothills of the Oscura Mountains and descending onto the Jornada Del Muerto basin, I was driving into the sunset at that awkward angle that is below the sun visor's protection, cooking my retinas to a nice golden brown. It had been a pleasant day. Although I didn't get to see any of the museums, nor any ladies in the buff, I did see some great scenery. I also had an excellent burger, got plenty of fresh air and sunshine, and of course, I won $7.
Another View From U.S. 380
Carrizozo's Visitor's Center
Outskirts Of Carrizozo
Carrizozo Heritage Museum 103 12th St 575.648.1105 Wed-Sat 10-2
Closed Jan & Feb Admission is free, donations are appreciated
White Oaks Schoolhouse Museum White Oaks 575.648.2521 Sat & Sun 10-4
Open Memorial Day to Labor Day Admission: $2 per person
Miner's Home And Tool Shed Museum White Oaks 575.648.2363 Daily 9-5
Open Memorial Day to Labor Day Admission is free, donations are appreciated