On a recent warm Spring day I set out for Moriarty and surrounding area. I headed east 37 miles from the Big I in Albuquerque, leaving I-40 at exit 194. I drove along Moriarty's main drag which is also Route 66. Tourism of the Mother Road is something that this town plays to. The entire length of the town is speckled with businesses whose names start with "Rt 66," and there's a giant neon Route 66 sign at the west end of town, which looks pretty cool at night. Moriarty is largely a farming and ranching community with a 2000 Census population of under 1800 people, so the dollars that 66 enthusiasts bring are important to the local economy. I made a right turn by the post office on S. Broadway and proceeded a block and a half to the Moriarty Community Library with attached Moriarty Historical Society and Museum. (10-5 tues-fri 10-2 sat 832.0839 Admission is free Donations are appreciated) The small museum houses a collection of items from the everyday lives of Moriarty's late 19th- and early 20th century residents. The inventory includes a chamber pot, early toasters, old cameras, old toys, lard cans, a Victrola, period clothing worn by locals, rifles, dishes, cookie cutters, an early manual-pump vacuum cleaner which took two people to operate, oil lamps, and inexplicably, a coconut. Each piece has a label identifying it, and the owner or donor of said item. Some of the information is detailed such as "Dress Worn By Martha May At The 1938 Moriarty Ice Cream Social," or something to that effect, while others have a rather obvious statement like "Candle Holder" (So many sarcastic remarks enter my mind at this point that I experienced a kind of log jam of snarky comments, thus resulting in none.). Moriarty was founded by an Irishman and the examples on display seem to be more Anglo in origin than collections of items in other New Mexico towns. I'm not sure in what way exactly, it just felt different from memorabilia I've browsed in say, Anton Chico or Socorro. One item that stood out was a pair of ladies' dress shoes, circa the 1940's, that were covered in Rhinestones. I bade farewell to the little museum and returned to the main drag.
I drove along Route 66 to the east end of Moriarty to the Lewis Antique Auto and Toy Museum, and had a splendid time. I poked around the large yard for nearly an hour, gazing at the plethora of antique cars. Many people would consider these to be merely a bunch of rusted old junkers, but not me. There are some rather rare vehicles on the premises that one doesn't get to see very often in any condition, i.e. several Crosleys. Armed with a camera and a recent Tetanus shot, I got up close and personal with many of these oxidized relics. As I walked among the cars and trucks I couldn't help but wish they could talk- oh the stories they could tell. I imagined that one '28 Ford truck told me how it took hopeful homesteaders from the Dust Bowl in Oklahoma to Pie Town for a new beginning. Another car told me of how its rumble seat had been removed to accommodate bootleg liquor during Prohibition, then an old Plymouth boasted of being a staff car that took scientists to Los Alamos to develop the Atomic Bomb. I began to think of them as ghosts of Route 66; once full of life and purpose, transporting logs from the mountains to sawmills, taking families on vacation, parked at Lovers Lane, racing from the scene of a crime, sharing in joy and sorrow alike, but now lying lifeless and still under the desert sky.
Occupants Of The Yard
Having thoroughly browsed the inventory of the yard, I made my way to the building where the restored vehicles are kept. There were some fine and shiny examples of aged autos, many from the 'Teens, 'Twenties, and 'Thirties. I spoke to Mr. Lewis, the owner, at length. He is more than happy to bend your ear if you have the time. Among other things, I was informed of his move to Moriarty from Albuquerque, changing times, a long list of arresting health maladies, how he knows the story behind nearly every car in the yard (amazing!), and how he bought his first car at the age of 9. The present collection of automobiles is a result of over 50 years of acquisitions, some of which he sold, only to have them return to him years later. It would seem that Mr. Lewis's collection is as fond of him as he is of it. He will occasionally part with something for the right person at the right price, so if you see a part you really need, or a restoration project to take on, just ask.
Old Ford COE One Of Several Crosleys
The rumbling in my stomach had been slowly building over the last hour or so and finally escalated to a cacophonous racket that drowned out Mr. Lewis all together. I thanked my host for his time and jumped back in my truck and headed for a BBQ joint that caught my eye on the way into town.
Some Restored Autos
I pulled up in front of Shorty's Bar Be Cue and Broaster Fried Chicken, where you can "Sit and graze or hoof it home." I perused the menu for a few moments before settling on the regular BBQ beef sandwich ($4.10) and a tall lemonade. Shorty's opened in 1993 and serves an assortment of apple-wood smoked, slow cooked barbecue items, as well as chicken fried steak, spaghetti, broaster fried chicken, pizzas, and hot wings. For dessert you can choose from shakes, floats, sundaes, ice cream cones, banana splits, or a "Jumbo Cow Chip Cookie." My sandwich arrived and I was glad I ordered the regular and not the large. The plate in front of me held a 6 inch bun packed full of tender and delicious BBQ beef, a small bag of chips, and a pickle spear. I happily ate, eavesdropped on conversations, and took in the surroundings. The restaurant is small and homey, with meat cleavers, barbed wire, Route 66 signs, and Big Mouth Billy singing fish adorning the walls.(And no, I do not find it ironic to follow the word "homey" with "meat cleavers, barbed wire,"and "singing fish." Geez, where did you grow up?) On the plywood ceiling of the supplemental dining room are burned the brands of local ranchers. The proprietor seemed to know most of his patrons, who in turn seemed to all know each other. The place had a sense of community that is often lacking in much of America today, which was quite refreshing.
Shorty's Bar Be Cue 1202 Main St. Tues-Thurs 12-8 Fri-Sat 11-9 Closed Sun-Mon 505.832.0400
Originally my plan was to go see the U.S. Southwest Soaring Museum, but having acquired a large stain of BBQ sauce disturbingly reminiscent of a gunshot wound to the chest, I decided to more or less stay in the truck for the remainder of the trip. I checked out the Rotosphere neon sign at the El Comedor restaurant, one of 9 signs whose refurbishing was a result of 2003's Route 66 Neon Restoration Project, which received many kudos, and even spawned an award winning documentary. The Rotosphere is a large ball with many neon wrapped arms, which spins and rotates, making it one of the coolest and more unique signs on display anywhere along Route 66.
The Rotosphere
Buford, Dinkle, Otto, and Stanley. No, that's not a law firm from a Dr. Seuss book, but names on my map along NM 41 that struck my interest, and made me chuckle. Buford was once a small community to the north of Moriarty, but was absorbed in 1953 as Moriarty grew. The Buford Steakhouse is seemingly the only link to the former town. I headed a few more miles up NM 41 to Otto, which is not so much a town as a collection of metal antennae and dishes that comprise, I believe, some sort of beacon for aircraft. A mile or so further north is Dinkle Road. I wondered what could possibly be at an area by the name of Dinkle, and the answer is not much. The ranch and farmland was a far cry from the dancing clowns or possible cousins of the Teletubbies or other bizarre images that the name conjured in my imagination. About 5 miles further on I came to Stanley, which brought to mind a Laurel and Hardy routine. Once a prosperous little town with general stores, restaurants, and a hotel, Stanley withered after a decline in agriculture in the 1930's , and the railroad severed ties (pun intended) in the 1940's. A few people still reside in the area, but evidence of its former glory was lacking. I turned around and headed back the 10 miles to Moriarty, then east along old 66 to Tijeras via Edgewood and Barton.
Between Dinkle Road and Stanley
At Tijeras, I stopped at the U.S. Forest Service's Sandia Ranger District Office to see the old Tijeras Pueblo, which resides behind the government facility. The pueblo was occupied from 1313 to 1369 and from 1390 to 1425. There is not much to see here, aside from some mounds and a few interpretive signs. The signs provide information on the history of the site including its beginnings, abandonment, resettling, second abandonment, and the much later excavation. A model of one of the occupations, and a display of local minerals adds to the interpretive history. This is no Chaco Canyon but isn't bad as far as free roadside attractions go.
Tijeras Pueblo
Having skipped the Soaring Museum, I still had a fair bit of daylight left and decided to explore the area around Cedro Peak. From the ranger station I drove south on NM 337 for about 6 miles and turned left towards the Cedro Peak Campground. I soon made a second left on NF 252 towards the campground and ambled along a dirt road past a few scattered houses. I came to a T junction and turned right. A short distance later I turned right onto partially hidden Forest Road 462 and stopped to lock my hubs and shift into 4 wheel drive. I bounced along the narrow two track for a mile or two, across rocky patches, and negotiated the deep ruts. I eventually came to a fork in the road and I realized with some dismay that I had forgotten to bring my map of these Forest Service roads and decided to turn back. When I reached the T junction I went straight (what would previously have been left) and took the bumpy way down. This road is very rocky and enlivened my innards into a sort of mosh pit in my torso. I reached the pavement down by NM 337 and unlocked my hubs and took a few moments to rearrange some items that had rattled loose on the way down. As the sun was beginning to set I decided I should head back to Albuquerque. Today I had looked at antiques, classic cars, eaten some excellent BBQ, seen a giant chunk of metal that spins and lights up, walked around an ancient pueblo, and got in a bit of 4x4 action. Now all that was left was to get home, prop my feet up, and have a beer. What a great day.
Rut 'N' Roll
A Bumpy Stretch
Lewis Antique Auto and Toy Museum 906 U.S. 66 East Free Admission/Donations Appreciated
Hours: Mon-Tues-Thurs-Fri-Sat 10-5 (Approx.) Wed 10-1 Closed some Sundays Phone 505.832.6131