I recently took a short trip to revisit a couple of spots right in Albuquerque's own back yard. Coronado State monument was my first destination for the day. I drove 15 miles north of the Big I to exit 242 for Bernalillo/Placitas, turned west, and continued 2 miles to the monument entrance (it's just past the big Jackalope store and has good signage).
Coronado State Monument/Kuaua Ruins is the remnant of a Tiwa Pueblo occupied from the early 1300's 'til around the early 1600's. This pueblo consisted of over 12oo rooms, and archaeologists believe that many of the room blocks were two and three stories tall. The monument takes its name from the Tiwa word for evergreen, Kuaua (KWAH-wah), and from the Spanish explorer Francisco Vasquez De Coronado. In 1940 when the monument was built, it was believed that Kuaua was the pueblo that Coronado and his men occupied during the winters of 1540-41 and 1541-42. Further study revealed in the 1970's that the site occupied by Coronado was most likely a mile or so south of Kuaua, but after thirty-some years it seemed silly to change the name. In 1540, Coronado marched north from Mexico on his search for Cibola, the seven cities of gold. He waltzed into town with an entourage that would dwarf that of even the most narcissistic Hollywood celebrity. Along for the trip were 300 Spanish soldiers, 6 Franciscan friars, 1000 Indian allies and slaves, 1500 head of livestock, a partridge in a pear tree, and the kitchen sink. Can the guy make an entrance or what? The 6 Franciscan friars were introspective, deeply spiritual, profound men- they were deep friars. Sorry, I had to. The walls that are seen today are not the actual ruins of Kuaua, but were constructed on top of the originals in the 1940's to give an idea of the size of the pueblo, while protecting it from further deterioration. One of the best parts of Coronado Monument is the square kiva. You climb a few steps and descend a wooden ladder into the subterranean room. This kiva was built to be a working replica of the original, including reproductions of the murals found on the walls during the 1935 excavation. Several of the actual paintings are on display on their own wing of the visitor's center. The visitor's center was commissioned in 1938 and designed by noted pueblo revival architect John Gaw Meem. It is a handsome building that I would gladly move into and spend many happy hours on the large porch admiring the view of the Sandias, drinking margaritas, and writing articles for you to read. The visitor's center has several displays populated with items relevant to the monument and surrounding area including Indian pottery, stone tools, bone tools, bone flutes, Spanish weapons, agricultural tools, and much more. There is even some replica Spanish armor to try on. Also on display are items of the later Hispanic culture including a giant retablo that would look great in my house, but despite my best puppy dog eyes and pouty-lip face, they would not let me take it. A separate room has a 15 minute video on the Tiwa people.
I found it difficult to imagine this as a thriving pueblo community being approached by Coronado from the casino parking lot, with soldiers taking up flanking positions at the Jackalope store and on the golf course. It just goes to show how much of Albuquerque and the surrounding area was built on top of ancient pueblos. Another example is the fact that artifacts and body parts continue to turn up at a local elementary school every time they renovate something. Drawings, models, and photographs attempt to lend a hand in picturing the pueblo as it was in the first half of the 1500's. I shut my eyes real tight and strained until my ears smoked and I was just about able to visualize it.
Although Coronado never saw the fabled Cibola, he did found the Coronado Shopping Mall and a small airport, both in Albuquerque. Well, maybe he didn't actually found them, but they were named for him 400 years later. Coronado also charted much territory, opening the way for other European explorers. He was brought to trial upon his return to Mexico for mismanaging the army and for doing horribly cruel things to the native peoples. Unfortunately, a glove didn't fit, the jury had to acquit, and Coronado went unpunished for the modern equivalent of war crimes. He died shortly thereafter from complications arising from an injury he received in our area when he had fallen off his horse. Was this New Mexico's first DWI? Perhaps.
Outside the visitor's center, on the opposite side from the ruins, there are several nice picnic tables beneath shady ramadas with excellent views, which provide a relaxing and pleasant place to eat some lunch. From the picnic area, there are trails that wander down to the river's edge, or along the ridge above.
Coronado State Monument is a great place to pass an hour or two. There is an adjacent campground for those who wish to go that route. Monument hours are Wednesday through Monday 8:30 am to 5:00 pm - closed Tuesdays. Phone 505.867.5351. Admission is $3 for adults, while children 16 and under are free. New Mexico residents get free admission on Sundays.
From Coronado Monument, it is a short drive to Jemez Canyon Dam (not to be confused with Soda Dam in the Jemez). To get there, go back out to NM 550, turn west (right), go about 1 mile, then turn north (right) at the traffic light at Tamaya Road. A mile later, continue forward from the 3-way stop another 4 1/2 miles to the scenic overlook. The Jemez Canyon Dam was built in 1950 by the Army Corps Of Engineers to store and steadily release spring and early summer runoff, and to provide flood and sediment control for those downstream. The water level marks on the storage side indicate that the water levels used to get fairly high, although it appears to have been a long time since that has occurred. The dam itself is small and rather dull to look at, but the views are what I keep coming back for. There are several covered picnic tables with built-in charcoal grills, as well as restroom facilities. There are no fees for this area and I recommend taking a break from your routine one day, grabbing some portable grub, and having a little picnic at this spot.
